Understanding Acne!

What is acne?

Acne is an inherited disorder of the pores, pores that shed skin cells much faster than normal.

Normal pores shed about one layer of dead skin cells but the acne-prone pore sheds up to five layers of dead skin cells per day, and the body just can't keep up. This forms the microcomedone.

The beginning of all acne takes up to 90 days. It turns into blackheads or congestion under the skin, or, if bacteria is present (which just loves to feed on the dead skin cells and oil), it turns into inflamed pimples or pustules, and maybe even cysts.

What's the difference between a white head and a black head?

White head is sebum (oil production) that's trapped underneath a layer of skin. But when that sebum is exposed to air it oxidizes and turns black, hence the name "black head".

Lifestyle choices affecting acne

Laundry - fabric softener, no dryer sheets!

The waxy residue gets on your pillowcases, towels, washcloths, and sheets that have direct contact with the skin. The residue will clog the pores of acne-prone individuals. If you want something to stop static cling to your dryer, you can get anti-static balls.

Detergent - detergent with fragrance can cause skin irritation, it’s best to use fragrance-free detergent.

You want to be aware of hand lotions if you're using a comedogenic hand lotion, and then leaning your face on your hands (you may do this in front of your computer or watching TV or sleeping on your hands). This could contribute to your acne and comedogenic means it's pore-clogging.

Breakouts around your mouth area - Many lip balms, toothpastes, and even facial tissues have comedogenic ingredients. So if you see breakouts around your mouth area, we recommend looking for toothpaste without SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate)

Picking or squeezing - Instead, rub ice on pustules and pimples for a couple of minutes after cleansing your skin.

You don't want to hold the ice in one spot, as that can damage skin tissue, but you can rub it around the areas that are inflamed. Ice will help calm the inflammation down.

It's important to know if you pick, squeeze and break the skin, that scab will leave a red or dark mark that will be there for months making your skin look way worse than if you left it alone.

Birth control and hormone replacement - you want to avoid low estrogen birth control pills.

"Lo" dose pills are higher in androgen hormones that can make acne-prone skin worse. Provera, depo provera shots, most IUDs like Murena, skyla, and light liletta can be a problem.

Also, the Nuva ring can cause breakouts. Progesterone hormone replacement and Premarin can be problematic. If you have polycystic ovaries, they will cause hormonal changes and breakouts.

Recreational and prescription drugs such as marijuana, cocaine speedy steroids used by bodybuilders, ADD, ADHD drugs, thyroid medication, and steroids can cause breakouts.

Food and supplements affecting acne

 *This is only a guide*. You want to try to reduce dairy, seafood (as in shellfish), cod scallops, peanut oil, corn oil, and canola oil.

Also, you want to avoid biotin and B 12. These all have been shown to worsen acne.

What are some of the acceptable substitutes? Freshwater fish, lake trout, bass, catfish, salmon, almond butter, nut butters, olive oil, coconut oil, pea protein, egg white powder… All these are great substitutes. A well-balanced low-glycemic diet can support all aspects of health, including your skin.

Supplements

The acne-prone are generally lower in antioxidants than the general population. I recommend incorporating antioxidants like zinc or selenium into your diet as well as a high-quality Omega-3 fish oil.

Research indicates that Omega-3 fish oil promotes an anti-inflammatory response in the body preventing and improving symptoms of common diseases. Omega-3 fatty acids are found in high concentrations in coldwater ocean fish such as sardines, anchovies, herring, salmon, and mackerel.

Studies have shown that people who suffer from chronic inflammatory acne may benefit from taking Omega-3 oils daily. The label on Omega-3 fish oil is important so read it! The vital ingredients in fish oil supplements are Omega-3 fatty acids, or EPA and DHA. These two fatty acids are the only ones that matter in reducing inflammation and chronic breakouts.

You want to look for molecularly distilled or pharmaceutical-grade fish oil. This is the highest grade fish oil because it is molecularly distilled avoiding oxidation of the fish oil, and it should be mentioned on the label.

This is also the only process that successfully removes impurities and contaminants. Look for capsules that have enteric coating. This coating ensures that the capsules will break down lower in your digestive tract, not in the stomach, minimizing those unpleasant fishy burps that many people experience after taking fish oil supplements.

You also want to look for vitamin E. Vitamin E helps to prevent oxidation during storage, keeping the oils from turning rancid. Vitamin E will usually be listed under "other ingredients" as tocopherols or mixed tocopherols.

By carefully choosing the right fish oil supplement, you optimize the potential benefits that Omega-3 fatty acids can impart to you. Many health practitioners agree that there are many benefits to taking high-quality fish oil supplements, especially for the immune system, heart, and brain.

Of special interest to acne sufferers, they may help regulate hormones, minimizing the intensity and duration of inflammatory breakouts.

**Please note: although there's no known toxicity associated with using fish oil over the long term, you should check with your physician particularly if you have a chronic underlying illness or are pregnant.**

According to the FDA, you should not take more than 2500 milligrams of Omega-3s daily unless under the recommendation of a physician.

How long will it take to clear acne without medication?

Because it takes up to 90 days for acne to form, you may still have 90 days of acne that will surface.

I am a certified acne specialist with face reality skincare. Therefore, I follow a specific protocol that will keep the new acne from forming that would surface 90 days from now.

The face reality acne system will have your acne under control in about four to six months (in most cases, depending on your acne type). Some types of acne take longer to clear. I customize a home care regimen that takes at least five things into consideration: your skin, your type of acne, your skin type, your skin color, your skin sensitivity, and your environment.

The biggest part of getting your skin clear will be your commitment to doing your home care regimen as instructed and following the lifestyle guidelines. Your dedication to the process will determine your progress.

The information in this blog post is a fraction of what I go over in an acne consultation, so feel free to reach out if you have any questions. My inbox is always open, you can email me at hello@urbanskincareclinic.com or you can send me a private message on Facebook or Instagram @Urbanskincareclinic