The difference between physical and chemical sunscreen

You already know the role sunscreen plays in your daily skincare routine. Sunscreen helps protect you from overexposure to the sun's damaging rays which can contribute to fine lines and wrinkles, signs of premature aging, dark spots, and skin cancer.

But first thing first, are you slathering up with a physical or chemical sunscreen? Does it even matter which one you use? Well, it might.

The key difference between these types of sunscreens lies in how they block rays. Physical or also known as mineral sunscreens sit on the surface of your skin and act as a shield, while chemical sunscreens sink into your skin and act more like a sponge.

There are pros and cons to both sunscreens, but sunscreen itself is non-negotiable, of course. Let's go over the differences so you can choose the best option for your sun protection needs.

PHYSICAL SUNSCREEN

Physical sunscreens are commonly known as mineral sunscreens. It's essentially the same thing, these two words are used interchangeably. They work by creating a physical barrier on the skin that shields it from the sun's rays.

These sunscreens deliver broad-spectrum protection by reflecting UV radiation away from your skin. They also help block UVA rays that come through windows, which can cause pigmentation, breakdown of collagen, and wrinkles. That's why it's so important to wear your sunscreen every day even if you don't go outside. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are both physical sunscreen ingredients and are often recommended for people with skin sensitivities including acne, and are gentle enough to use on children.

Mineral sunscreens do have one downside: they can be chalky, difficult to spread, and they tend to leave behind a noticeable white cast on the skin. If you have a darker skin complexion, this whitish cast can be easily apparent but you can massage it in for maybe a minute, and it will get absorbed.

CHEMICAL SUNSCREEN

Chemical sunscreens absorb the UV rays before your skin can soak them up. Oxybenzone and avobenzone are the two most popular chemical sunscreen ingredients used in sun protection products.

In most cases, chemical sunscreens don't really leave a visible film layer on the skin which makes them easier to wear on a broader range of skin tones. Because they're designed for absorption, chemical sunscreens tend to go on smoothly without feeling sticky, tacky, or greasy, and they don't leave the telltale white cast like physical sunscreen does.

A potential drawback of chemical sunscreens is some ingredients could exacerbate skin conditions like rosacea, and skin sensitivity. Therefore, if you have sensitive skin, you will likely do better with a physical sunscreen since it poses a lower risk of irritation.

Some of the chemical sunscreen ingredients, notably oxybenzone, octocrylene, and octinoxate, have been associated with dying coral reefs. If you prefer a chemical sunscreen, check the label and steer clear of any formulas with oxybenzone, octocrylene, and octinoxate.

CAN YOU BE ALLERGIC TO SUNSCREEN?

It's possible that some ingredients may cause an allergic reaction. This can cause an allergic rash, among other symptoms.

If you're experiencing rashes from sunscreen, it's important to identify the underlying cause rather than stop using sunscreen altogether. You'll need to instead use another kind with other ingredients that don't result in an allergic reaction. Oftentimes, a client will say, “I can't use sunscreen because it breaks me out.” Well, it's not all sunscreens! You just have to find a formula that agrees with your skin.

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE SYMPTOMS OF AN ALLERGIC REACTION TO SUNSCREEN?

Symptoms of a sunscreen allergy look similar to sun poisoning, as well as a heat rash or sunburn. Some of these symptoms include hives, raised bumps, swelling, blisters, and scaling pain.

HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE FOR YOUR SKIN TO SHOW ALLERGIC SYMPTOMS AFTER USING SUNSCREEN?

The amount of time it takes for an allergic reaction to develop depends on the person. It can happen within minutes, or it may take as long as two days for any signs to show.

Sometimes, you may not get a reaction until the sunscreen on your skin is exposed to sunlight. This type of reaction is called photo allergic contact dermatitis. You may be at an increased risk for sunscreen allergy if you have contact dermatitis with other products. People with sensitive skin are also more prone to chemical sensitivities in skincare products.

You should also use caution when using a new sunscreen. If sunscreen allergies run in your family, a way you can test a new product is to do a patch test. Squeeze out a small amount of sunscreen into your hand and rub it onto just a small area on your skin, maybe inside of your elbow. Wait and see if any reactions occur. You may need to expose the area to sunlight in order to see if you have a reaction. If nothing happens over two days, then you can apply the sunscreen to the rest of your body.

HOW CAN YOU TREAT AN ALLERGIC REACTION TO SUNSCREEN?

A sunscreen allergy is treated similarly to other allergic skin reactions. In milder cases, the rash will subside on its own. But in moderate or severe cases, they may require topical or oral steroids to reduce inflammation.

An oral antihistamines can also help with itching. If you are experiencing a sunscreen allergy, it's important to stay out of the sun until your skin has completely healed. It can take up to several days for full recovery depending on the severity.

SUNSCREEN TERMINOLOGY

There are so many different types of ingredients, formulations, and levels of possible protection out on the market. How do you know what all of these terms mean? I am going to cover some of these terms that are commonly used on skincare products.

SPF

These three crucially important letters stand for "sun protection factor". SPF can range from 15 to more than 50. The current recommendation from the American Academy of Dermatology is to use a sunscreen with at least SPF 30 protection! I personally recommend SPF 30 for every day and the winter months, but I'd like to switch to SPF 50 for the summer or if you're going to have prolonged sun exposure (playing sports, etc.)

BROAD SPECTRUM

Broad Spectrum means that it protects you from both UVA (aging rays) and UVB (burning rays) which are both important not only for skin cancer prevention but also to reduce accelerated aging.

WATERPROOF SUNSCREEN

There is no such thing as a waterproof sunscreen because sweat and water remove the sunscreen from your skin. So the FDA no longer allows this term on product packaging.

VERY WATER RESISTANT 80

This term indicates that a sunscreen will remain effective for up to 80 minutes of exposure to water.

PHOTOAGING

Unfortunately, this isn't an app on your phone that shows you how you look when you get older. The definition is much less fun. Photoaging is premature aging of the skin because of exposure to ultraviolet rays. This leads to the development of fine lines, wrinkles, crepey skin, brown spots, and broken capillaries. Basically, looking older than you really are from spending too much time in the sun.

LIFESTYLE 

Some lifestyle habits to adopt are being mindful of your clothing, maybe wearing long-sleeved tops and pants when possible, and wearing a wide-brimmed hat to shield your face and neck.

Avoid UV lights, including tanning beds, and if you enjoy getting gel manicures, the ray is aging your skin! Make sure you have SPF on the back of your hands. Last but certainly not least, timing peak sunshine hours are between 10am and 4pm. Aim to spend time outdoors before or after this period whenever possible and make a point to stay in the shade when you are outside. Sunscreen is the best way to reduce your chances of sun-related skin damage.

When it comes to sunscreen, you have options and the best one is the one you would use every day. By making sunscreen part of your daily routine, you are taking care of your skin and your body.

More Americans are diagnosed with skin cancer than all other types of cancer combined. Sun protection, in short, is an everyday essential so if slathering sunscreen on your face, neck, chest, and the back of your hands on a daily basis is not part of your routine, it should be! In short, the only time you don't need SPF is if you need a flashlight to go outside.

"Self care is never a selfish act. It is simply good stewardship of the only gift I have. The gift I was put on earth to offer others anytime we can listen to true self and give the care it requires. We do it not only for ourselves, but for the many others whose lives we touch" — Palmer Parker